A couple of weeks ago, I went for quick visit to Europe. It was a bit spur of the moment. I was getting stir-crazy here in Yaounde. Two of my delegates here had the great Idea to get married in Barcelona and we had a day off anyway which made most people plan long weekends. Mum had a nice surprise and I a wonderful few days in Burgundy, Barcelona and Paris. Here a few pictures of summer street life at Beaubourg with an impressive gymnast:
And here are the last pictures of him when we were at the high speed train station in Montchanin. We hugely enjoyed having him here and we miss him already.
It was only natural during a week when we worked and talked of stone every day, that someone should mention the great dry-stone walls that litter the hill between St Clement and the next door village of Rains. So on Cosy's last morning in France we went for a stroll over there. Cosmas was as captivated as anyone by the huge walls whose origins or function no one seems to be quite sure about. Surely they are way too massive and elaborate to be boundary walls between fields. Of the latter, there are many here and they are much smaller, thinner and don't have sides of stone that have been hewn and squared. These walls are man-high and often wide enough for three to walk comfortably abreast on. For someone who has been to Great Zimbabwe, the kinship seems quite obvious; and the idea that this could simply be the stones the villagers picked up from their fields seems rather ludicrous. These aren't just simple stones. They are big lumps, squared and carved into form and why would anyone go to so much trouble simply to keep stones out of fields and to separate the fields from each other? Cosy and I decided that these great stone works had to have had some sort of defensive function. When? Peace only knows! But it is tempting to assume they could have been erected in the dark ages to provide the villages and their cattel shelter against marauders. Or perhaps they could even date back to Roman times. There is, after all, a Roman road crossing the valley just below our village of St Clement.
Among the walls and built into them there are the 'cadoles'. Stone shelters built entirely without mortar and in some cases presenting amazingly sophisticated concepts. The first one we looked at has a square footprint on the ground and then, through and octagonal form moves to a round 'dome' in precisely the same way you can seen in some ancient churches and mosques.Cosy is looking up into the 'dome'. Just above his head is the four larger flat
stones that cut the corners to go from square to octagonal. Below that stone and behind Cosmas the walls meet at a right angle.
The second 'Cadole' we visited has the local nickname of 'cathedral' and it's easy to see why. Its size and high roof make it stand out among these ancient structures. The 'cadoles' were clearly used as shelters for people working in the fields or perhaps standing guard on the walls. Today, it certainly looks like the cattle roaming the field beside the 'cathedral' use it to get out of the weather. In our calcuation it is three cows long and two wide.
And so to the final day of our experience with Shona Sculpture. With the pieces ready we lit the b.b.q. not to grill our lunch, that came later, but to heat the stone near the fire. Every one of us was a bit aprehensive about the stone cracking in the heat. But Cosy only grinned and shoved them closer to the flames. When the stone was hot we slathered it with bees' wax polish, like you use for your old dining table, and the stone drank up the stuff. When finally it didn't want to absorb anymore, we let the stone cool and then started polishing with soft rags. The colour and sheen was different from when the pieces were simply wet. The blue hues turned more green and now they are permanent.
Now it was time for feeling a little proud and satisfied, for making pictures with new friends and Cosmas brought out the Mbira and started singing of Zimbabwe.
Regula had to be away, so her piece stands in for her.
Cosy held my place while I took the pictures
Cosy the artist and musician
And finally we went into the old church and listened to Cosy's music ringing in the stones that have been raised at the same time as the great stone monument of Cosmas' country: the royal enclosure of Great Zimbabwe - the House of Stone
In a couple of days Cosmas will return home to Zimbabwe and his village of Tengenenge. He'll come back with many stories to tell but also with our thanks for a wonderful week and our wishes and hopes for a bright future for the artists of Tengenenge and Zimbabwe as a whole.
Day 4 and we are knee-deep in rasps and sandpaper except of course for Cosmas who's already there for the second time round, this time working on a little masterpiece. After thunderstorms during the night, our workplace was freshly washed of the stone dust and agreeably fresh in the morning. Our luck or St Clément's microclimapte, held for another day and, apart from a few strong gusts in the afternoon and a quick brush with a shower at the end of our working day, we stayed nice and dry.
More and more the pieces are emerging and I for one have discovered that I can happily sandpaper for two days. It's an almost zen-like experience and to my own suprise I didn't even for a second think, 'let's get this finished and done with!' You just move at your and the stone's pace and the reward may be a sheen and colour you never expected.
The lion, geometric forms, the chicken, the gothic lady and my warrior, let alone Cosy's little face and the freeform are all waiting for their final proof by fire and wax tomorrow.
Halfway through our workshop and Cosmas tackled a challenge that Corentin had brought him: Try to work with the local stone from our corner of Burgundy!
It's a limestone that varies in hardness and is very friable. It chips and splitners and often contains not only fossils but also veins where the stone is harder. Cosy hammered and banged away at
the stone Corentin had brought using Corentin's tools because those for Serpentine we use, are not hard enough for limestone. By the end of the day he had a few blisters and was muttering at the
intractable piece of rock but chip by chip, splinter by splinter a very Burgundian motif had emerged from the yellow-reddish stone: a bunch of grapes.
Meanwhile, with some of us absent on other errands or nursing minor strains, we progressed to rasping and sand papering and the stones started to show some of their
colour.
Day two and things are definitely emerging from the stone. Sometimes it may not quite be what was originally intended but...Work is also slower
now. After the first day of knocking awai big junks of stone we are now down to the smaller chisels and rasps. Cosmas keeps circulating among as giving advice as needed while letting us get our
own feel. He is a very good teacher.
You hardly ever see him touch the stone and yet Cosmas is way ahead of us. Must ahve something to do with knowing what he
deos :-D
Every now and again friends and visitors pop by to see the work in progress as here Annie's emerging chicken!
After a long and hot day, we went to Chapaize and had dinner with good friends in their garden enjoying wonderful food and
wine. I get the feeling Cosmas rather likes the French country life.
Another brilliantly sunny and hot day and the workshop has started. Annie, Regula, Corentin, Julien and I under Cosmas' guidance are finding how to work with Serpentine and after a
day things are emerging from the stone. A
lion here, a bird or a geometric form there, sometimes these things aren't quite what was expected or intended but they are already taking shape.
I think I can safely say everyone enjoyed themselves greatly. The place where we work has something to do with it as well.
At times you hear no sound except for the birds and the ringing of hammer and chisel. At others there are bouts of laughter, people pulling each other's legs about their progress - or lack thereof...
After a hot and dusty morning we enjoyed an apero of our local white and rosé and, when we called it a day at 4pm nobody was in a rish to stop and some hammered on
for another hour and couldn't leave their stones alone.
Brilliant hot day. Summer is here and Cosmas and I have been polishing up the pieces in my garden. They
look brilliant and alive again and the garden is lush and full of flowers - at least one good thing to the months of rain...
From Paris to southern Burgundy - 350KM or and hour and ten minutes in the high speed train,
TGV.
Cosmas and I arrived in Saint Clement on Friday evening after having missed the early
afternoon train because I had ill adjusted my watch... Don't ask! Anyway since then we have Cosy installed in the Gîte right across from the church and we have set up the courtyard for the
workshop. Gil, the guy who brings our firewood, provided great logs of oak. The stones from Zimbabwe came via Bikdhau KG in Cologne, Germany as did the sets of tools for the participants. We are
all set to go tomorrow morning.
To celebrate, Cosy hosted us for drinks in 'his' courtyard, Susanne got to wear Cosy's
hat and then we had a braï in our garden. Today: relax and get readdy to try working stone tomorrow...